FINGER LICKING GOOD: My Night with Mr. Delicious

Some people think TABLA Tapas Bar is hard to find, but I like to think of it as a nice getaway. After you traverse an industrial brick alley in Downtown’s Union Plaza, you step inside its warm patio with a fireplace and soon approach the hand-painted red brick wall—you’re in another city, a culinary safe haven if you will. In this culinary Gotham city, you’re safe from all the evils of greasy tacos or belt-busting portions; the bad guys are punished for doing damage to your bowels and taste buds. Never fear…MR. DELICIOUS IS HERE! and I’m curious about who this Mr. Delicious really is. I want to know about the man behind the mask, Tabla chef and owner Norbert Portillo.

While other kids were watching cartoons, Portillo says he was watching cooking shows, usually in German and French. He did not understand what they were saying, but he understood everything they were doing. It wasn’t until he was 17 that he realized culinary school existed. His sight was set on it and never he looked back.

While attending school at Scottsdale Culinary Institute, Portillo gained experience at Gregory’s World Bistro—an international cuisine restaurant that he describes as being ahead of its time. After school, he moved to Portland and worked in various kitchens; the city had a great influence on him exposing him to sustainable cooking, farming and seasonal ingredients.

Portillo still implements that influence when he creates dishes today—simplicity is key. “I tend to stick to a 6 ingredient rule,” Portillo says. Although cookbooks are always a good reference, his creativity doesn’t spark until he’s getting his hands dirty in the kitchen. Other inspirations include previous kitchen experiences, friends and other chefs including Gabriel Rucker, Grant Alchatz, Elliot Bowles, Jason Owens and Mario Batali.

After moving back to El Paso, Portillo realized the city needed a bigger variety of dining experiences, not necessarily a variety of food. He was looking for a restaurant that offered him a way to sample several dishes, not just one—I can relate. At any new restaurant that I go to, my friend insists I order something different as her. When our meals arrive, she takes half of mine and gives me half of hers, a sneaky yet good solution. Portillo had a better solution: tapas.

Tabla opened its doors on July 2011. What initially hooked Portillo when choosing a location was the beautiful brick building, it perfectly suited the atmosphere he envisioned. A menu of tapas, sangria, and signature cocktails was created. Portillo recommends the mussels in a chorizo fennel broth, carrots and chickpea salad with a homemade mint yogurt, brussel sprouts with pork belly, and celery and feta salad with a grilled tomato vinaigrette.  If you have never been to Tabla, I highly recommend it, if you have, make a return trip because new items are always popping up. Tabla is also now open on Mondays for lunch and dinner.

So what’s next for Mr. Delicious? He is opening a pub Downtown and will be featuring craft beer and his version of pub food. Portillo doesn’t seem to be slowing down anytime soon. In fact, that’s what he loves the most about his job: constant changes and new surprises that keep him moving. Looking up from the kitchen and seeing a dining room full of people puts a smile on his face. “When it’s busy, and everything is flowing like a well-orchestrated symphony, that’s a rush.”

Q&A WITH MR. DELICIOUS

How did the name Mr. Delicious arrive?

I was talking to my designer, Zeque Penya, about our work shirts. We were trying to think of what I could put on mine. He suggested Mr. Delicious. It kind of just stuck after that.

Tell me about your favorite dish to cook.

I would have to say soups and salads. There is so much variation you can have, and both can take such different directions.

How often do you cook at home?

Never. I rarely have time to go grocery shopping. The only food you’ll find at my house right now is cereal. But I do love cooking for friends and having dinner parties.

What is your guilty pleasure food?

I would say Whataburger. I keep it simple: a #5, no onions, with spicy ketchup

How addicted are you to Food Porn?

Haha. I think I used to be a lot more addicted. Not so much anymore.

You’re always in the kitchen. I’m assuming a day off for you includes being outdoors.

You’re right. I love anything outdoors. I enjoy rock climbing, all sports, spending time with my dogs, Aioli and Linus, and I love cycling. I’ve been doing it for about 8 years.

What kind of changes do you see happening in the El Paso food scene?

There is so much potential here. There are more independent restaurants popping up. El Pasoans are definitely shying away from chain restaurants and embracing the local scene.

Any local restaurants that you like right now?

I really like Sabertooth. The food is very approachable and the restaurant has a good vibe.

If you hadn’t become a chef, what other profession would you have considered?

I really couldn’t tell you. I always wanted to be a chef and didn’t think about anything else.

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UPCOMING EVENTS AT TABLA

Mr. Delicious Cooking Classes
Cooking classes will returning soon in the evenings. Portillo provides a fun interactive setting to learn new recipes and skills in the kitchen. “I enjoy talking about food, answering questions, and helping others get involved,” says Portillo. Be sure to bring your friends, family, and loved ones!

Cinema by the Campfire
There is nothing cozier than watching a movie by a fire. Pretty soon Tabla will be introducing Campfire Cinema, a monthly night to sit by the fire, enjoy a movie, happy hour specials, and s’mores. Have a cuddly canine you just can’t part with for the evening? Bring them along!

Downtown MELT Continues
Wrap up the month with Downtown MELT. The last Saturday of every month multiple restaurants and bars host an open house in El Paso’s Downtown with food and drink specials, beer and wine tastings, and live entertainment. Portillo collaborated with the owners of Hello Day Cafe and Pot Au Feu and hosted the first Downtown MELT in June 2013. Portillo says, “It’s a great way to showcase Downtown and show how it’s evolving. We can still be a community even though we are a big city.”

New Menu
Portillo and his staff at Tabla are always cooking up new dishes and can’t wait to share them with you! Be on the lookout for some delicious new items arriving soon to their menu.

Tabla Hours:
Monday – Thursday, 11AM – 10PM
Friday 11AM – 11PM
Saturday 4PM – 11PM

115 Durango St., Suite D.,  El Paso, TX 79901
915.533.8935

PHOTOS BY: ANDREW JOSEPH